
Bayou in Your Backyard
By CHARLES PASSY
Special to THE WALL STREET JOURNAL
April 22, 2005; Page W5
Let the good times boil.
That's what many a crawfish lover is apt to say this time of the year.
The peak of the season for crawfish runs from roughly January to June.
In recent years, many homesick Louisianans (and those who just crave
some Cajun) have turned to crawfish purveyors who can ship the crustacean
overnight -- with ice packs to keep them alive -- all across the country.
To find out if these almost-mini-lobsters -- "mudbugs", the
locals call them -- could manage the journey from the bayou to our front
door, we placed orders for live crawfish (which varied from 15 pounds
to 50 pounds, depending on the companies' minimums) with five vendors
and enlisted two former Louisiana residents to help us with the boiling
and the judging.
Crawfish is very much a seasonal product -- that is, the size, quality
and price can vary week to week, even with the same vendor -- but we
looked for a couple of constants: how lively our crawfish were upon
arrival (a mudbug that goes into the pot dead is inedible) and how good
was the accompanying boil mix, a seafood-friendly blending of spices
that usually includes more than a pinch of cayenne.
The Spice of Life
Crawfish boils are as much about the spice as the crawfish meat, especially
since there's so little of the latter to be had: The claws are generally
too small to yield anything of note, so you're left picking apart the
tail to get at what's edible. Fanatics are known to suck all the spice-flavored
innards from the head as a bonus, but, understandably, not everyone
partakes in that tradition.
In the case of Mr. Mudbug, our 50-pound shipment cost $250 but arrived
without the promised boil mix. We relied on a supermarket-brand boil
mix to give the crawfish a flavor boost. Our 15-pound order from Louisiana
Crawfish Co. had a great boil mix, but our $80 shipment arrived in sorry
shape -- a sopping mess, to be exact. We might have been able to deal
with the dripping cardboard box if it weren't for the fact that about
a third of our crawfish arrived dead.
Livecrawfish.com, on the other hand, had a boil mix
that struck a better balance, and its 15-pound order, which cost $85,
was the only one packaged in Styrofoam. This meant it arrived in terrific
shape: The medium-size crawfish still had plenty of fight left in them,
and shipping was included in the price, making it our Best Value.
Livecrawfish.com
Party in a Sack for 4 (15 lbs.), $84.95
866-522-3663
Quality: Best Value. The "party" includes
15 lbs. of medium-size live crawfish, plus a decent boil mix.
Shipping Cost/Time: On-time overnight shipping included in price; Saturday
delivery adds $12.95.
Return Policy: If not satisfied, notify company for a refund.
Phone/Web Experience: We had to leave a message to place our order,
but got a call back in a few minutes.
Comment: Company sells a $300 package that includes 30 lbs. of live
crawfish, plus a 60-quart pot and a propane burner.